Rusty's Engine Swap - Lots of Pics. - Page 3 - REVmatch

kmfdmk · #51 09-05-2008, 02:53 AM

Got the exhaust done all welded up today (short of the last 3 feet which includes the yet to be purchased muffler and S curve coming up from underneath the axle and aligned to the muffler) I plan on mounting the muffler in place and orientation and then fabbing the pipe to match the muffler angle & position. Also seriously thinking of adding another flange right before the muffler IF my car with just the glasspack is quieter than 90dB, if not I'll just weld on the muffler. (PIR has a 90dB limit after 10pm).

Getting close, hopefully Saturday night it'll be running.

I've got about 30 minutes of actual MIG weld time under my belt and I've discovered I LOVE MIG welding, it's so much easier than stick. My favorite part is not having to stop welding just to put on another stick. Going to try my hand at GMAW (Gas Mig) this weekend on the Intercooler pipes, hopefully it'll be a lot cleaner and less splatter.

By the end of the night tonight I was laying beads that looked almost as good as the roboticly welded glasspack.

Glasspack "Resonator" on left Downpipe on right

My bead on left, robotic on right

Glasspack 3" ID 4" OD, and downpipe on the right

It's only 4" but I SWEAR it looks bigger.

kmfdmk · #52 09-10-2008, 01:54 AM

Downpipe w/ 4 coats of 1800* VHT Ceramic Enamel flat black.

Inside shot of the downpipe. Could have been a bit more smooth and less turbulent if we had bothered to take the time during fabrication, but I want it running NOW!

Hole in Drivers Side fenderwell for Charge Pipe/Hot Side to the Intercooler. I went about 1/2" too low and nicked the frame rail. I'll be welding in a piece to keep water out and return what structural integrity I can to the frame.

What's that? Oh yeah, it IS possible to run FFIM pipes w/o relocating the battery tray HA! (FFIM to come later, SFIM for now).

My helper for the day (and team mate Adam) posing next to the work in progress. You can see the filter & turbo intake pipe, oil filter mount, and the new old stock strut top hats here.

After a long day & into the night the Intercooler is mounted along with the Oil Cooler.

Still need to add a piece of 1/2" strapping to hold the other side of the Oil Cooler.

Clockwise from Top, (ignore the red wire) Radiator, Oil Cooler, Intercooler.

Custom Fabricated Oil Filter mount located in the stock AC Compressor location, made from 1 1/4" x 1/8" steel strap. You can see the flow lines on the filter mount from when I delusionally thought I could fit filters, thermostat and oil cooler all between the two headlights (between the intercooler and radiator there's enough room but not left to right room w/o using right angle elbows).

Underside shot of the drivers fender well. No holesawing the fender well that's behind the furthest outside air dam entrance, actually went under it and still have just as much ground clearance as I would w/o the IC.

View from underneath of the Oil Cooler mounted (flash was overkill but couldn't see w/o it).

The perfect location, plenty of clearance front to back between sway bar and engine mount, no ground clearance issues, and PERFECT accessability.

Still have to run the oil lines, and figure out how the hell I'm going to get the lines around the turbo charge outlet, damn spin-on remote oil filter adapter has the lines just about dead center in the way. Also have the remainder of the IC pipes to do, mount the FPR, and get a speedo cable elbow to get the cable to the tranny, other than than it's ready!!

T-minus about 3 days!!!

Jnxd1 · #53 09-10-2008, 02:39 PM

Damn dude, seems like you've been working non-stop on this project.

Oh well, it's well worth it.

Can't wait to see some pics and vids of this thing hauling ass!

**MOFO** · #54 09-10-2008, 05:10 PM

what is that one of those gas-less mig welders?

keep practicing on the welding, because that is horrible.

ps needs more heat.

araderboy · #55 09-10-2008, 05:17 PM

PT, why dont you offer to do it for him

: )

**MOFO** · #56 09-10-2008, 05:20 PM

i would tig it up for him no sweat.

blackmist27 · #57 09-10-2008, 05:48 PM

that thing will be pretty sweet... cant wait to see it when its all put back together!

kmfdmk · #58 09-10-2008, 11:08 PM

Yeah I have been working on it pretty much non-stop, after work every other night or so for a few hours and about 12 to 18 hours+ on the weekends.

I believe gas-less MIG welders would simply be a MIG welder using Flux Core wire, and a gas MIG is a MIG that uses regular core along with a shielding gas, and then there's TIG with a replacable electrode tip (which heats the working metal) shielded by gas, and filler metal added by hand via a rod.

Are there wire feed TIG welders or does such a thing not exist.

I had tried the heat on C (Lincoln Weldpack 100) but it was burning through too much. I know I was still getting good penetration from the welds by looking at the under/inside and looking at the metal surface and the heat discoloration. Although I will admit the smooth liquid area formed from the arc did not go ALL the way through to the underside (meaning you can still see the seam and the bead did not liquify the bottom/inside 1/2mm or so).

With practice I'll get better, I'm not a pro but I've done enough to know it'll hold, and it to be realistic it only needs to contain about 20 to (eventually hopefully) 30psi.

As for the horrible welds, the only ones on the downpipe that I did were around the turbo flange, the collector/plate flange, and the last piece in front of the flange. The rest were my mechanics attemps, and he's got a bit less patience than I.

Looks like we're on track to have it running Saturday. Will post a startup video when I finally get it running.

Som · #59 09-11-2008, 02:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kmfdmk

I believe gas-less MIG welders would simply be a MIG welder using Flux Core wire, and a gas MIG is a MIG that uses regular core along with a shielding gas, and then there's TIG with a replacable electrode tip (which heats the working metal) shielded by gas, and filler metal added by hand via a rod.

Are there wire feed TIG welders or does such a thing not exist.

I'm kind of a newbie welder too... as far as I know, you've got it right. And I have the same question about wire feed TIG.

I'd been trying to do aluminum welding with my wire-feed MIG. Pumping argon. First had problems with blowing through the metal. I solved that by just making sure I moved quickly (drawing really fast "U"s back and forth down the line) and actually managed to get some decent looking welds. Unfortunately, I can't get the tension on the wire feed right and my aluminum wire always jams after maybe 10-15 seconds. It sucks.

One day I'll just go for the glory and get a TIG.

- Som

kmfdmk · #60 09-13-2008, 02:53 AM

Attempt number two, my computer ate the first one.

Apparently my left rear brake light got broken recently. James says he noticed it was broken a month ago or so over Joel's. All I know is that I don't remember it being broken before I left for vacation 3 weeks ago, and I don't remember it being broken the other night. I do know I'm getting tired of working in other peoples' driveways and getting kicked out when they leave. I'm tempted to tow the damn thing back to my garage after the welding is done and finish it here.

Upper TB to IC pipe

Somehow the pilot bit for the holesaw snapped in the first few revolutions. I should have the receipt, I'm gonna take it back and get a new one, that's bullshit, doesn't even complete two holes and it snaps. Hopefully the broken one didn't get thrown away.

Finally got oil line clearances nailed down. Had to file down the shoulders of the brass 45* fitting to clear the shank on the 90* elbow, and rotate the whole spin on adapter counter clockwise. Apparently I had hand tightened it to such extremes that it required a floor jack and a few extensions to push on the ribs of the adapter to get it to turn counter clockwise. >.< At least it shouldn't leak.

Passenger side mounting bracket for the oil cooler in place. Just need to drill the mounting holes for the cooler and install the ny-lock nuts I bought for it.

Underside view of the mounting bracket for the oil cooler. I welded on a tab to keep it square while utilizing one of the stock mounting places on the lower radiator core support.

Upper TB to IC pipe in place and almost complete. Still have to weld on the BOV bung/flange and paint it, and then clean it out with solvent.

Upper TB to IC pipe in place.

An underside view of the completed lower IC pipes. Still have to complete the charge pipe that will run from the turbo outlet to the IC inlet on the drivers side. You can see it peeking out behind the radiator on the far side.

I plan on getting the car running with the old radiator and then installing electric fans on an electric thermostat, and installing the new radiator. I'm going to have to utilise the Beech Permormance billet aluminum alternator relocation bracked to clear the hose inlet on the radiator. It lines up almost perfect with the stock 7M alternator pulley, and nothing short of a 90* bend will make it fit. The lower engine feed outlet lines up no problems.

A ton of work left to do. Looks like I'll be lucky to race my car at all this season.

kmfdmk · #61 09-24-2008, 09:54 PM

Getting closer and closer, should have it up and running in a day or so. Need to locate a 7M-GTE Manual ECU and finish a few wiring issues.

Ordered the muffler, and struts, will install those tomorrow. Just bought an ebay cheapy stainless that was 3" inlet with dual 2.5" outlet tips, and Monroe Sensatrac's (39.99 ea) till I can get the Megan coilover kit.

All the oil cooler lines are loomed, attached, and situated properly to not kink, coolant lines installed and tightened, IC pipes cleaned, primed, painted, and installed, BOV modified (Tial knockoff - removed 2 coils from stock spring, was ridiculously stiff), and tightened up various loose ends and bolts.

**White Out** · #62 09-25-2008, 07:44 PM

Rusty, I can get you the megan coilovers for dirt cheap. PM me if you are interested.

Nick

kmfdmk · #63 10-02-2008, 09:38 PM

The new engine runs, and it runs wonderfully. There's no way I could have done this without the tremendous efforts put forth by James as well as JoeC and all the help from my team mates coming over the past few months working on it as much as they could help.

A few things to note. The MAFT-PRO isn't really that hard to wire up and install. James did the majority of the wiring bits, but I did understand what was going on and what wires went where. There's a lot of cross-referencing going on between 7M-GTE ECU pin-outs, MAFT-PRO pin-outs and the LC-1 Wideband pin-outs. However once you get it all hooked up it's a breeze.

Tuning is very easily done via the MAFT-PRO as well, albeit I have a very crude base/user tune it's NOT hard to use at all. Not any harder than initially figuring out how much you will have to lower the base fuel map scale (from adding larger injectors) then selecting the load the engine will have (low, mid, & high) and then selecting the RPM and adjusting the fuel up and down. Now it sounds easy and it is, but then again you also have to watch the voltage coming out of the wideband to see if the ECU is essentially maxing itself out trying to correct what YOU are doing to it.

I still have a TON of reading up to do, two small oil leaks to take care of (always save a headache and upgrade to -AN fittings even if the seem expensive)... I wish I had spent the $30 bucks for the -10AN 45* curved bend.

I know I already need a new tranny, this R154 was from a wrecked car and has noises. Also cut the fuck out of my hand, however I now have installed new Strut Top Hats, as well as Stainless Steel braided and sleeved brake lines & new Struts (Monroe Sensatrac, because I'll be getting coilovers in November).

ARFNSX · #64 10-02-2008, 10:49 PM

Congrats Brotha. I am glad you got the engine started. Now you have time to test and tune it and have it ready for 2009. I hope my turbo still works by then.

Give the best to Llana.

xoxo my mohawk bro!!!

Som · #65 10-03-2008, 12:52 AM

Awesome!!!

Don't forget... your mission... should you choose to accept it... is to get video footage of your first drag race against an unsuspecting "fast and expensive" sports car.

Bonus points if you ask him "How much did you pay for that?" If he says "More than you can afford.... Ferrari", then have your friend in the passenger seat turn to the camera and say "Smoke him."

Looking forward to it!!

- Som

BamBam · #66 10-05-2008, 10:29 AM

Congrats Rusty!!!!
We are all looking forward to seeing her on the Rally next year. So keep plugging along and get her dialed in just right.

kmfdmk · #67 10-07-2008, 09:45 PM

Getting it tuned next Friday unless I can seal a deal with John Reed to have him tune it. Already have nearly 750 miles on it. Right now, running a little rich (10:1 AFR's under boost) and 3 to 5lbs boost, it's spinning the tires in 4th gear @ about 65mph by simply doing a steady throttle roll-in. When I try the same in 5th the clutch slips, so I need to get that adjusted, or look at upgrading to a twin-plate.

All I can say is that turbo'd cars are fucking sick, and it's worth every penny. It feels like it just wants to LEAP forward. It's fun, but intimidates the wife *lol*.

blackmist27 · #68 10-08-2008, 04:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by som

awesome!!!

Don't forget... Your mission... Should you choose to accept it... Is to get video footage of your first drag race against an unsuspecting "fast and expensive" sports car.

Bonus points if you ask him "how much did you pay for that?" if he says "more than you can afford.... Ferrari", then have your friend in the passenger seat turn to the camera and say "smoke him."

looking forward to it!!

- som

lol!

badpolizei · #69 10-21-2008, 03:06 PM

Nothing like having a new engine to play with.

kmfdmk · #70 01-29-2009, 09:47 PM

So I figured I'd give you guys an update. The car has been running well for the last 4 or 5 months. I've just had a basic tune that I had done myself with the help of a friend who's familiar with the MAFT-PRO system. Back in December I attempted to get John Reed to tune my car, however due to some laptop issues we weren't able to finish. The highest HP that it had before the laptop screwed up was 337hp, however John had just barely started. I've since tried twice to get John to tune my car but he seems to do things on "his own time" when he wants. This last time was a no call no show for him after I had the dyno reserved. I was pissed and let him know, and initially he said he didn't want to do business with people who handled things the way I did (Telling him to get his head out of his ass probably didn't help). Anyways he reconsidered and now I'm just waiting for him to call someday when he's free. I'm definitely NOT holding my breath.

So in the meantime I've been tuning the car myself with the aid of a laptop. I have cut my O2 input to the ECU forcing it permanantly into Open Loop. Now the changes I make to the VE table and elsewhere will actually go into effect below 2000rpm and below 70% of TPS voltage (below 70% throttle).

It's been fun and I've learned a lot, watching my Aux 1 voltage, the wideband AFR's, and how the ECU responds on (throttle) Tip In etc. It's taken a lot of time and I'm still not finished. I've been erring on the side of caution, keeping my AFR's around 11.5 to 11.2 under boost (18psi). I pretty much noticed a night and day difference in driveability and performance upon forcing the ECU into Open Loop. The powerband is MUCH smoother and it pulls RIDICULOUSLY hard. Now I've just got certain areas of the VE table left to tune (lean out) because I'm hitting Fuel Cut (which is from having the Injector Duty Cycle too high).

I'm looking forward to letting John finish up and smooth out my work though. I'm still aiming for 425 to 450hp.

In the meantime I did get some work done on my car while I was home in Ohio for the Holidays.

50' of Header Wrap on the intake & 50' of Header Wrap on the downpipe, and got a turbo blanket too. The blanket was a bit small even if it is supposed to fit a T3/T4 housing (and mines a stock CT26 housing)

Also ordered all new suspension bushings to finish out the ones I don't have and have KYB AGX's on the way. And I have some ProSport Gauges (electrical) that I've installed to replace the mechanical AutoGage ones (which I liked better becuase they were more responsive and accurate). I've also mounted a Firestick helical CB antenna in the stock antenna location, and installed a Cobra 29 LTD CB & a Uniden Scanner and made a magnetic scanner antenna mount for it.

kmfdmk · #71 02-09-2009, 12:28 AM

Ordered some suspension goodies!!! Well yeah about 1200 worth of suspension goodies!!

First we have...from the always helpful Aaron of Rabid Chimp.com

KYB AGX 8-way adjustables for all 4 corners

Front Lower Control Arm Bushings

Rear Control Arm Bushings

Rear Sub-Frame Connector Bushings

And in this corner... from Robert of 935 Motorsports.com

Ground Control Coil Overs with 500lb Springs

T3 Camber Plates

T3 Needle Bearing Top Hats

35mm Roll Center Adjusters

And from PitStopUSA.com with Part Number EIB0950-550-0400 or EIB-09505500400

CLICK HERE FOR MORE SPRINGS @ DIFFERENT RATES

PS. Summit Racing has them, but they're f'ing back ordered till Feb. 20th

And from DayMotorsports.com I got these 85500 A

SS-85500-A Spring Spacers.

Should have my suspension done in a few weeks once all the stuff arrives. WOOT Just in time for racing season. Of course I have to get Llana's Supra running and out of the garage first...

kmfdmk · #72 02-13-2009, 10:00 PM

Dyno tuned my car with the assistance of James as my driver (and some of his knowledge of screwing around with boost settings).

406hp & 392 torque!!! I'm still going VERY rich from 3200 to around 5000 need to lean it out some more. That's for next week

Click the images for hi-res versions. Tuned it @ RRev in Jantzen Beach in Portland. VERY helpful and a pleasure to do business with. I WILL be going back. They had the dyno ready upon my arrival and had me tuning within 5 to 10 minutes or so of arrivng. Had to sign waivers and tie the car down etc.

bgod · #73 02-14-2009, 09:39 AM

That spike in the curve....

Is that fuel related or timing related?

Hope you're not beating on the thing with that tune?

But great progress.

kmfdmk · #74 02-14-2009, 02:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bgod

That spike in the curve....

Is that fuel related or timing related?

Hope you're not beating on the thing with that tune?

But great progress.

I assume that you're talking about the HP / TQ curve?? If so it's neither it's turbo related. It appeared when I adjusted a few things like PSI Set, Gain, PSI Start, TPS Start etc.

Why wouldn't I beat on it with that tune eh? It's not leaning out dangerously anywhere. I'm still stupid rich in the mid-band. Not to mention several other dyno sheets from supra's with the CT-26 have the same small spike. However mine is unique that my torque doesn't drop like a rock after 5,000.

But no I haven't beat on it with that tune. This tune is STILL too rich as I'm hitting fuel cut, so I have to lean it out even more.