Rusty's Engine Swap - Lots of Pics. - REVmatch

kmfdmk · #1 07-08-2008, 10:57 PM

I'm building up a 7M-GTE to put into my 85 MKII P-type. I already regularly AutoX, RallyX, and drift my car, not to mention run it in the AKA Rally a 3000+ mile road rally across the US. I decided after only doing 118mph last year on the Bonneville Salt Flats, and after having to run the piss out of my 5M just to keep up with everyone on the Rally that I needed something more, a lot something more.

Since I'm a bomb technician I make good money, so cost while still definitely an issue and wanting to do it efficiently, I wanted to do it right so that I wouldn't have the usual problems from a direct JDM swap engine (buying someone else's unwanted & unknown problems).

88 7M-GTE block
Bored .020 (20 thousandths over)
Honed & Polished
Decked Block
Magnafluxed Block

Stock 88 head
Dye checked for cracks etc
Port & Polish exhaust side
Short-Turn radii removed on intake side
Intake port matched

Stock Exhaust Manifold Port Matched to the Head and polished up (esp where the exhaust flows across the divider and into the turbo).

Used Eagle Forged Rods (these came out of a built motor that had the pistons burnt up due to improper AFR during break-in, only about 250 approx miles if that)
New Probe Forged Pistons .020 Overbore w/ Rings

Stock Crank Magnafluxed
Micropolished journals
Teardropped oil passageways
Undersized Bearings

Front Sump 5M-GE Pan w/ Oil Return already there

Intercooler, crossflow Spearco style, 24"x12"x3" w/ 3" inlet/outlet
3" Intercooler piping
3 or 4" Exhaust w/ matching (3 or 4") custom fabbed downpipe
Aeromotive FPR Kit (from Driftmotion)
CT-26 .57 trim (from Driftmotion)
MAFT-Pro piggyback ECU
650cc Injectors
Walbro 255lph pump

ACT Stage 3 6-puck
Thinking of wedging in a MKIV Aluminum Radiator, need to check on clearances & fitment. Anyone know if the MKIV radiator will physically fit in the MKII?? Nevermind mounting it I'll fab some mounts.

Cost Breakdown (shipping included)
Block & goodies & all that other bolt on crap ($??? don't remember around $300 to $400)
Cams $85.00 (good used)
Probe Forged Pistons $395 + Used Forged Eagle Rods $350 + ARP Head Stud kit $125 = 870 + 35.45 S&H = 905.45
5M-Fidanza Flywheel (which I'm trying to get SOLD & is FOR SALE) $290 + 9.99 S&H = 299.99
Walbro 255 pump $98 + .57 Trim CT-26 Turbo $600 + Aeromotive FPR $250 = 948 + 34.81 S&H = 982.81
6x Oil Squirters = around $80 (I think)
Rear Wheel Bearings, Drum Brakes, Axle-Stub Nuts, Seals, Bearing Puller & Grease, & 7M-GTE Hoses = around $500
Stage III Clutch $515 + 26 S&H = 541
7M XTD 12lb Lightweight Flywheel = $100
Intercooler $175
Junkie's Wiring Harness = $450
5M ECU & plugs for Junkie = $55
Upgraded 7M-GTE Oil Pump $325 + ARP Main Studs $139.99 = 464.99 + 17.08 S&H = 482.07
All the bloody Machine work = Approximately up to around $2500 or so I need to get updated
550cc Injectors, Intake Mani, Timing Belt Idler, ARP Flywheel Bolts, and EGR Block Off = 631.06 (driftmotion)
50mm BOV, All Intercooler Hoses, Fuel Dampner Bypass, Form In Place Gasket Sealer, Gates Racing 7M Timing Belt (Kevlar Reinforced), NGK Plugs, NGK Wires = $435.59
Mocal Oil Thermostat w/ AN-10 fittings - $64
6M Crank Scraper - $89.27

Running Total (estimated): $8676.24
Left to get:
IC Piping ~200?
Oil Filter Relocation kit w/ Cooler ~ 150
Exhaust Piping ~ 100
Muffler $56 shipped

Now for the pictures. BTW the full gallery of pictures (I'm only posting the good/pertinent ones) can be viewed here: http://s92169157.onlinehome.us/gallery/7mgte

Stock head before stripping down to take to the machine shop.

Crank

Odds & Ends Parts & Pieces (Rear Timing cover, bearings, water pump etc)

Cam removal before taking to the machine shop.

Cams are a little rusty (lol) I'm still waiting to hear back if the cams are usable or not.

This manifold turned out to be worthless since it was full of cracks (no suprise there)

Not the recommended cam removal method but it worked.

Something tells me I'll need new lifter caps (or whatever you call them)

Removing something related to either Fuel or EGR. Gee... I'm wearing a KMFDM shirt... what a suprise.

Used EAGLE Forged Rods as I received them from Aaron from Driftmotion.com Bushings looked great and Aaron is incredibly good with customer service. No really, I called him @ 8.30pm @ night to leave a message on his business machine and he actually answered and we talked for like 45 minutes. Really helpful, highly recommended.

EAGLE logo, anyone else thinking Third Reich or is the Industrial music I listen to getting to me.

5M-GE Pan, front-sump w/ Oil Return already present.

Oil Pump (duh)

All new Oil Squirters for the 7M-GTE block, gotta keep those pistons cool.

Probe Forged Pistons, Rings & ARP Head Studs

A good view of the top valve recesses & dish

Another good view of the recesses & dish

Fidanza 11lb Aluminum Flywheel

The 24x12x3 Intercooler, same one that Aaron's got for sale over at Driftmotion.

The car it's all going into.

kmfdmk · #2 07-08-2008, 10:58 PM

More stuff!!

Some of the original detailing on the NA valve covers starting to flake off.

The other one still looks pretty good, but still going to through the parts washer.

Valve Covers and Cams, we had issues getting the Exhaust cam gear bolt off (obviously). Going to let the machine shop handle it.

New exhaust gasket for getting the exhaust side portmatched.

New (well good) Valve Lash Adjusters/caps/buckets whatever. These ones are ok.

Titan MotorSports 1.4mm Metal Head Gasket

The thing looks 100% metal w/ brass? rivets holding the layers together.

Close up detail of the gasket. Looks like a 0.3mm layer, a 0.8mm layer and another 0.3mm layer. Just guessing, no Micrometer to check.

kmfdmk · #3 07-08-2008, 10:59 PM

More pictures.. Of the headwork & wheel bearing change which didn't fix the howl in my rear, I've concluded it's the Diff. This would be a logical conclusion since I've been drifting & auto-x'ing the thing and it's begun to "loosen up" a bit on me, not locking up properly. Hunting for a new 4.?? or 3.high diff. and R154.

Polished lower intake mocked up to the head.

Detail of the removal of the short-turn radii on the intake side of the head.

Detail of the polished lower intake.

Closeup detail of the removal of the short-turn radii on the intake side of the head.

Mild porting, more really of the polishing on the divider in the exhaust manifold.

The head all pretty & clean w/ some kind of meaningful numbers written all over it.

3-angle Vavle job detail and crummy detail of some kind of work that I paid big $$ for *lol*.

Hub, Rotor, & Parking brakes off, axle stub getting ready to come out for bearing replacement.

$108 bucks worth of bearing puller and worth EVERY DAMN PENNY!!

Closeup detail of the part numbers on the Bearing Pullers JIC anyone else would ever want to order them. I got these over the counter from Baxters which is literally right around the corner. I think they're some kind of uber hard alloy.

Around $300 to $350 bucks worth of parts. New L&R F&R parking brakes (OMG E-brake WORKS now!!), new nuts, inner & outer bearing seals, inner & outer bearings, grease, 14mm socket & 27mm socket, screwdriver, hammer and you can pretty much take the whole damn thing apart.

Of course none of this would be possible with out some punches and a BFH (Big f'n hammer)

Closeup of the bearing puller clamp on the bearing itself. I tightened these down evenly and got them firmly snug.

Then I went to Home Depot and got some 3/8" x 8" bolts because the little 3" long ones it came with weren't suited for my application. Note that I made very sure to have the bearing puller evenly aligned so that it would pull STRAIGHT up & not be cockeyed.

Working on pulling the #$%^ bearing off. Usually a PITA in the past, however the puller makes life much easier. NOTE: See how I sorta cheated by putting the wrench in the center of the Puller Screw? This lets me have something to leverage against when I'm cranking on it to pull the bearing off. Just have you be careful not to damage the threads on the Puller Screw with the wrench.

Installation reverse of removal, other than the application of the bearings onto the stub with a punch, a smaller hammer and TLC spreading out the taps on the inner race of the outer bearing in a top bottom left right manner to get it on.

Also left out was the hour spent cussing at the car due to cross threading the NEW nut I bought from the dealership, pulling it back off, cleaning out the thread shavings and reusing the old nut which turned out ok. Not to mention the other hour of cussing at the car because I want to shoot the invetor of DRUM BRAKES in the FACE. What a PITA, ineffecient design. WHY O WHY Can't Supra's have the same E-Brakes as Hachi's? Pull the handle and the .... wait for it... CALIPERS squeeze the rotor. OMG life would just be too easy then.

More pictures to come. Turbo, Walbro, RRFPR Aeromotive, ARP Main Studs on the way. Figuring out

how to get a 7M pump in a 7M with a 5M pan...

Got a mohawk today too. That was an adjustment, had long hair (past my shoulders for about 9 years now) and now I've got a 8" mohawk. Pictures to come of that as well hehe.

kmfdmk · #4 07-08-2008, 10:59 PM

ARP Main Studs

ARP Main Stud Detail

Upgraded & Moly coated/plated 7M pump.

You can see where they ground off the stock "TOYOTA" casting hehe.

Aeromotive RRFPR w/ Adjustable Base, Oil-Filled Gauge & Install Kit

Walbro 255lph In-Tank Pump & Install kit. NOTE: This is for the MK3 Application, note that PN: 125-147 is the PN for the fuel pickup sock.

Walbro Pump & Instructions. NOTE: The PN for the pump is 147-385

kmfdmk · #5 07-08-2008, 11:00 PM

These are all self explanatory. .57 Trim CT-26 turbo from Driftmotion.com. If you haven't heard of them, go check them out for 7M stuff. All kinds of good deals and good prices, kick ass customer support too.

ACT Stage III Clutch w/ 2800lb Pressure Plate & 6-puck Sprung Hub Disc. & the 12lb XTD Lightweight Flywheel.

Action 6 puck ceramic/metallic sprung disk

Detail of the original machining done @ the manufacturer still present. Only a VERY thin surface rust, hell steel wool and about 10 minutes would probably have it gone.

Detail of the original machining done @ the manufacturer still present.

Backside of the XTD Flywheel. It IS indeed STEEL, however they've managed to figure out a pretty ingenious way of manufacturing it to make it as light as possible.

Detail of how the flywheel has a dish in it. Also a bit of detail of the only damage to it, where the previous owners starter was chewing away at it.

ACT Stage III Pressure Plate

Stock outer housing with the heat-treated upgrade on the spring.

Pressure plate machine surface detail.

Bearings.

The whole kit about $641 bucks worth.

Decided to run Siemens 550cc injectors (again from Driftmotion) seems to be a bit better quality and they're cheaper AND have the clips INCLUDED for the 499 price.

Got to take pictures of the completed Oil Pickup Troy down @ Dan Hall Machine in Portland, just off of Interstate & Killingsworth did the work for me. Tucker did the headwork and completed the head.

Fabricated Oil Pickup

Assembled Head Ready for Pickup (after Payment)

kmfdmk · #6 07-08-2008, 11:01 PM

Tucker cleaning my Block after decking it.

Dan Hall's Old SCCA Race Car, condemned to mothballs & jackstands. I'll have to find out exactly what it was.

The do a little bit of work on Cranks. Just a little.

Ok so maybe a LOT!!

Another workshop pic.

Where Troy & Tom hone & work with the blocks. You can see the hones in the middle right.

Lathes, Presses, workstations galore.

The green machine on the right is what bores the blocks, and the red one to its left is the parts washer. (I think)

A damn good reason to upgrade to forged Rods!!!

Just a bit of abuse occured prior to fatal failure.

L-R, Tweaked Rod, Through the Top, and Just a bit of Blow By...

This is what happens when all kinds of stuff gets ate by your piston, you get crankcase ventilation!! Also you can see my forged rods in the reflection. It's all be balanced and will be assembled next week ready for pickup in 2 weeks when I get paid. Also you can see a rod cap that had catastrophic failure and came from together.

Closeup of destroyed piston, and fubar'd rod cap.

kmfdmk · #7 07-08-2008, 11:01 PM

Spent another grand or so between parts and the machine shop.
631.06 on parts, $500 @ the machine shop. ($1800 so far paid to machine shop)

The Heat Shielding Intake Gasket for the Lower Intake Manifold to Head.

Timing Belt Idler Pulley, Siemens DEKA 550cc Injectors, Clips, ARP Flywheel Bolts, and EGR Blockoff Plate

Detail of the Siemens DEKA Injectors, looks like they are: 3102 w/ 4 160 00780 also stamped on them.

Obviously it says Siemens DEKA.

Right now I'm trying to decide if I want to rent a welder (tig) so I can fabricate a FFIM so I can save on the hassle of fabbing an ASSLOAD of intercooler piping. On the one hand I would have to lose the ISC (Idle Speed Controller) which I don't even know if I really need. On the other I've never welded aluminum (ever) let alone used a TIG machine (ever). However I've done a decent amount of cutting steel, its' alloys, and aluminum, as well as brazing & soldering. *shrugs* 6 to 1 half a dozen to the other.

I really would like the cleaner looking engine bay AND the less of a hassle on the IC piping.

Thinking about getting some D-Plenum that I found out about here from RossMachineRacing.com 2' of universal 5" D-Plenum, a 5" D-Plenum weld on cap, and a 6"x6" Make-Your-Own Throttle Body adapter plate only comes to 124.90 prior to shipping. Not really that bad at all if you think about it.

kmfdmk · #8 07-08-2008, 11:03 PM

Bought some more stuff today. Also spent $85 bucks at the U-Pull-It and already have installed the new Lower Windshield cowling since mine was rusted to hell.

$428.59 worth of goodies. Still need to get the radiator, oil filter relocation kit, oil thermostat, filter, and oil cooler, 3" exhaust piping, and the 2.5" intercooler piping, buy oil and I'm pretty much set to go.

50mm BOV polished aluminum $90.00
Hump hose 2.5 inch silicone $10.00
Reducer 2.5 inch to 2.75 inch $11.40
Reducer 2 inch to 2.5 inch $11.10
2x Reducer 2.5 to 3.0 silicone $23.60
T-Bolt Clamp 2.75" $3.50
6x T-Bolt Clamp 2.5" $19.50
2x T-Bolt Clamp 3.0" $7.50
T-Bolt Clamp 2.0" $3.00
7M Fuel Dampener Bypass Hose $65.00
FIPG (Form In Place Gasket Sealer) Black $13.50
Gates Racing Timing Belt for 7M $75.00
6x NGK BKR7E Spark Plug $13.50
NGK spark plug wire set for 7m-gte $59.99

Just picked up this Mocal AOT2-3 Oil Thermostat w/ AN-10 fittings for my remote filter & Oil Cooler for $64 bucks shipped from Cali. Woo Hoo.

Got the MAFT-Pro, Data Cable, & Harnesses the other day. Only thing was I got a cut harness and had to splice on another 4.5 feet onto the ends of it. Soldered the ends together tonight and double shrink tube'd them for added insulation security. Dear God not only does having the right type of solder (electric vs plumbing), also having good solder really pays off. I tried soldering the first lead with the solder that came with my Weller. What a PITA, it was cold soldering and not flowing properly into the connection. The $4 bucks I spent @ Home Depot was well worth not having a hassle soldering the leads on.

Wiring Diagram for MAFT-Pro (Maf-t Pro, maft pro)

Plumbing/Wiring Diagram for a Tial Wastegate (which I am not running but thought I would include for someone else' reference)

the Innovate Motorsports LC-1

This thing looks to be VERY high quality and made very well. It comes with custom data logging software, as well as the bonus that you can use it as a Narrowband O2 sensor to replace your stock O2 sensor, and has dual analog outputs (1 narrowband and 1 wideband) So yeah looks like you can also run both a AFR gauge and the MAFT-Pro with this (which is what I wanted to begin with).

You get a lot for $199 shipped, and it was fast, only ordered this on Saturday, and it's here on Wednesday.

My 2 piece crank scraper arrived today for SIP Racing Mailorder. $89.27 shipped

The UPS man delivered some more goodies today.

The MOCAL Oil thermostat arrived along with the order from SupraSport.com

The MAFT-Pro Electronic Boost Controller (EBC), CT-26 laser cut flange, and the EBC Wiring Harness (plug-n-play to MAFT-PRO)

Wiring the EBC to the MAFT-Pro

More diagrams

A few grand in parts just stacked in the corner :\

kmfdmk · #9 07-08-2008, 11:49 PM

Just got some more stuff today (again) 3 days in a row is nice

The 50mm BOV, NGK wires, NGK Plugs, FIPG (Form In Place Gasket sealer), Fuel Dampner Bypass, Gates Timing Belt, all the Silicone Hose Couplers, and all the Stainless T-Bolts.

Picking up the head and block this Friday!! Hope to have it in either this or next weekend.

MDracer76 · #10 07-09-2008, 04:22 PM

Looking good so far Rusty.. you think it will get over 85 this time?

kmfdmk · #11 07-09-2008, 08:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MDracer76

Looking good so far Rusty.. you think it will get over 85 this time?

Hey now, I definately can do 85mph no problem

It's maintaining speeds uphill in excess of 100mph that is a problem with a tired 23yro 142hp engine. I did manage 117mph on the flats and anywhere else that was flat saw stuff similar to that.

I'm just curious myself to see what the whole driveline tops out at this year. Hopefully we can make it happen.

NickyBlack · #12 07-11-2008, 11:43 AM

what h.p are you expecting from it?

kmfdmk · #13 07-11-2008, 12:27 PM

I should be getting 400 to 425hp with the combination of parts that I have. My buddy has the same setup, minus the crazy headwork, the blueprinted oil pump, and has 440cc injectors and he's making about 365hp. However he's tuned that one himself, and really needs to get it done properly because he hits fuel cut. If he had it professionally tuned he could get more out of it. I certainly hope to get 425hp, plus that would be sick to be making almost as much HP as a Mercedes C63 AMG, which costs about five times what I've paid for the car, engine, & all the other work to it (incl susp). (although it does have paddle shifters)

Speaking of CL63 AMG, check out the sweet video I found on Andy Sapp's Website.

YouTube - Mercedes Benz C63 AMG commercial

BadAss Lamborghini Commercial

Ukodus · #14 07-11-2008, 03:31 PM

That Lambo Commerical ROCKS. Damn I really want one now.

brothersracing2 · #15 07-11-2008, 09:38 PM

Dis be P & C's other Daddy's, our names are Franklin & Franky. We work on karz too as you can see. We iz in da process of buildin one heck of a rally car so'z dat we can play too. We hope to have it finished by the time dat Momma getz out of rehab so'z we can pick her up in da style she is used to. First on our list is to go by Wal-Mart late tonight and git us some Donks & Maypops, we hope dey match but dat depends on da Po-Po's. Any whose, be Kuel and keep us inform'd on ya progress and if ya need any used batteries we can hook ya up by going by the Hi Way depart'ment tractors on da freeway, same place dey have FREE fuel!!!!

kmfdmk · #16 07-12-2008, 01:40 AM

Got the total from the machine shop, $3514... about a grand more than I was originally quoted, however I should eventually be able (after turbo upgrade) to push the same bottom end to 25 to 30 psi & just upgrade the valvetrain.

RedBarron · #17 07-13-2008, 11:14 AM

Nice, it's gotta go fast for the rally, ha.

kmfdmk · #18 07-14-2008, 12:52 AM

Next time I really will just do a full up 2J twin-turbo swap from a totalled MKIV Supra. This was a waste of money. Seriously I'm up to like ten or eleven grand, and I still haven't moved onto upgrading the suspension which will be at least another 2 grand even with sponsorship... >.< Well I haven't driven it so I can't say it's a complete waste of money, but going the 2J route would have let me already have like a 600HP monster... Oh well.

Picked up most of the engine from the machine shop Friday. It ended up being about a grand more than I expected. Total came to $3514. :\

The polished exhaust manifold.

The Balanced Front Pulley

The Balanced 11lb XTD Flywheel & PP (were balanced together)

The Upgraded 7M-GTE oil pump, modified pickup, as well as a stock 5M-GE oil pump, and a few extra feed tubes

Close-Up of the Knife Edged Crank, ARP Hardware, & the bottoms of the Eagle Rods

The Short Block, just waiting for the head. Nice & clean.

A shot of the Oil Pan, you can see where a bit of the stock baffling was cut out to make room for the modified 7M-GTE Oil Pump pickup.

I get the head in a week and a half because I'm broke till then. I'm tired of barely having food & gas money after paying the bills. Last week by the time payday rolled around I had like $20 bucks to my name. But my buddy put it into perspective; I'm cramming an engine build that most people would do in a year or two into about 3 months.

All that's left to get is the Oil Cooler kit, and Intercooler Piping, and Exhaust Piping, and the ebay muffler. The Spin-On oil adapter for the Oil Cooler kit is on its way, and so is the Griffin 3" Aluminum Dual Core radiator (Item # GRI-1-25221-X), got the one that's 26" wide, 16" tall, 3" thick for $195 from Summit. I couldn't justify the extra $300 to $400 bucks for one with mounting flanges in the right spots.

kmfdmk · #19 07-19-2008, 06:00 AM

VHT Enamel Coated the Exhaust Manifold, the Heat Shields, the Valve Covers, and the Lower Intake Manifold.

Everything other than the valve covers.

Lower Intake Manifold

Exhaust Manfiold and Heat Shields

Mock-Up of Turbo on Exhaust Manifold w/ Heat Shields

You can see right around the base of the turbo where I missed a bit because I didn't want to spray enamel on the mounting surface.

Personally I think it looks better w/o the Heat Shields, but know it'll help with the underhood temps.

Not recommended unless you don't mind your oven reeking of paint. But it's the only place that the valve covers would fit. All the rest fit in the grill (which worked wonderfully).

The valve covers, which I'm going to detail in some really bright red for the lettering and the striping.

Another box-o-junk, Rear Timing Cover, bad cams, water pump, a whole set of screwed up buckets & shims, oil pump drive shaft, & odds and ends.

kmfdmk · #20 07-20-2008, 06:57 AM

SO the machine shop screwed up and put a Main STUD where a Main BOLT was supposed to go, (I think Journal #3) and my Oil Pump Pickup doesn't clear when bolted to the block. Looks like I'm going to have to take the block back to the machine shop to either have the pump machined down to make room for clearances, or have them switch around the bolts & studs. Hoping to get all that done this week sometime. Hopefully if it does get done the engine will be going in this upcoming weekend.

**diablesse** · #21 07-20-2008, 11:09 AM

oooohhhhhh...you're starting to cut it close there Rusty.
Less than a month to go now!

brothersracing2 · #22 07-20-2008, 06:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by diablesse

oooohhhhhh...you're starting to cut it close there rusty.
Less than a month to go now!

Go Rusty Go!!!!!!!! Go Rusty Go!!!!!!!!

kmfdmk · #23 07-21-2008, 10:46 PM

And here are pictures why the block (and head, though that's another story) went back to the machine shop today (thanks to my mechanic James).
Pretty much goes like this, ARP Stud got installed in Journal #3?, and Bolt in Journal #7?, which needs to be switched around. Here are shots of the problem itself with clearances.

Gee Brain the pump won't go all the way in...:faint:

Hmm Pinky Perhaps it's an issue with clearances...

Pickup Flange hitting the ARP Stud

If you look closely in this picture you can see both the gap remaining for the pump to fully seat in the lower left, and the pickup flange bottoming out on the Main Stud.

Another shot a bit further away to give you a better orientation.

Bolt in Journal/Main Cap #7 needs to get moved to...

Main Cap/Journal #3...

The head also went back to the machine shop today to be tore back down again and cleaned. I say cleaned and not re-cleaned because there were no less than 7 aluminum shavings in and on the head. The smallest about 1mm x 2mm, and the largest about 1.5mm x 6mm or so.

The good is that both will hopefully be done tomorrow (within 24 hours) and it's being done at no additional cost which is the way it should be as much as it's cost me so far.

Got my Perma-Cool Spin-On-Adapter from Summit the other day along with the radiator. Amazing like 48 hour shipping time.

This is the radiator.

No Cap, No Mounts, no Drains, No Bungs, No Petcocks, and no added cost.

Yes, I know the fill is on the passenger side.

Right End Tank

Left End Tank

ARFNSX · #24 07-22-2008, 09:36 AM

And you call me crazy....

See you soon!

brothersracing2 · #25 07-22-2008, 01:41 PM

Gotta give it to ya Rusty, balls to the wall scramblin---Ya be Crazy Bro-- ya only got a couple of weeks. Are ya gonna break it in on the drive across or are you gonna try and pull dat off before ya leave. Whatever you do we be lookin fo mucho 4 leaf clovers to send to ya. Keep posting so we can watch!!
Patdaddy